Calcutta - First Thoughts

I have been in Calcutta (Kolkata) for about 6 weeks now. Now that things have settled here, these are my first thoughts of the city.

Honesty
Based entirely on my interactions with Taxi Drivers, Auto Rickshaw Drivers and Rickshaw Drivers, on an average I believe that Calcuttans are more honest compared to the people in Delhi, Bangalore and Chennai. The only place where these people are more honest would be Mumbai. Most of these folks quote the exact same rate for going from Point A to Point B. And the best of it all, they have change till the last 50 paise. Plus there is no night charge (at least I was not charged even though I travelled at 12 in the night - Bangaloreans would be envious as they have to pay one and a half from 830 pm onwards). You have to pay the newcomer's tax sometimes as is the case everywhere.

Food
The essential (regular) items are on par or cheaper than that in Bangalore. You can get vegetables and rice at very low prices. Chinese food is very cheap. Me and my wife enjoy delicious Momos for only Rs 20 per plate (You get 5 pieces to boot). Food if you need to buy is also less expensive. Rotis cost Re 1 only (Unheard of in Bangalore). If you are a fan of South Indian food, please be ready to pay much much more than in Bangalore. The average cost of a Masala Dosa here is about Rs. 30 (About twice the price in Bangalore). Tea is excellent and Coffee avoidable.

Housing, Rents and Landlords
Not only based on my experience but the collective experience of many people I encountered - housing is cheaper once you want to look out of the IT hub of Salt Lake City. In Salt Lake City, be ready to pay extra for most items. The Deposit for houses range from one month to one year. The contracts are not standardized and are definitely negotiable. Unfortunately, unlike in Bangalore, it is very difficult to find a house using Free Ads or Ad Mag. You need a broker. Brokerage tends to vary from person to person please get to know the terms and conditions of the broker before you employ his services. Landlords (even though I did face some problems earlier on) are much better compared to Bangalore. My things got delayed for about a week coming from Bangalore - the landlord and his family gave us food three times a day, gave us two chairs and a table, a bucket and beds. Two of my colleagues in office who were new to Calcutta were treated similarly. The only drawback is that most of the houses are slightly old - the one I am living is about 20 years old and you have to buy your own fans, geysers, etc.

Dogs
Most places don't stock dog food. To get a packet of Pedigree, the best bet is to go to a medical shop and place an order. For the 10kg pack, you would have to wait for atleast 2 days. There are a lot of cats on the street (my wife says its because of the fish :-)) ). In case your dogs have a habit of chasing cats, you would have a wonderful time trying to handle them like I do. Most people though don't care much about dogs and it is difficult to try and find a vet. The city is humid so the dogs might get some time getting used to the conditions just like the rest of us.

Driving and Transport
Don't even think about driving - driving is already prohibited for me. The cars drivers are almost as rash as the ones in Delhi. Autos and Taxis are no exception. The private buses are equivalent to the Red Line buses in Delhi. Helmets are compulsory but as in most cities the enforcement of the law is pretty lax. People carry the helmets to avoid getting caught by the police. If you are travelling locally, try the cycle rickshaw, the hand carts are available in the old city (though they are going to be phased out soon) - for longer distances, taxis though costly are the best medium. If you need to go to a place located near a Metro Station, please go ahead - that's the best part about travelling in Kolkata.

You get a breath of fresh air literally in the mornings. The city sleeps by 9 and most people would not be on the roads after 7 in the evening. There are a few malls coming up but you get most of the stuff in the kirana shops where they recognize you from the third day onwards and give free home delivery irrespective of the amount of your purchase. The shops close almost mandatorily during the lunch time (1230 pm to 4 pm). Its very difficult to get a discount even if you are buying in bulk - I wanted to buy 4 fans but the shopkeeper said no discounts. As one of my friends put - if the thing you want is a necessity then you can get it dirt cheap, else you would have to pay through your nose for it or worse you may not get at all.

Overall, the city though modern is still very traditional. The cost of living is rising but is still lower than the other metros and neo-metros in India. The people are very congenial and helpful. You can survive speaking in Hindi but the first reply invariably is in Bengali, though if they know English or Hindi, they gladly reply in that as well. Rating - 7/10

This is a repost - it was posted before my blogs were deleted on 02 Feb 2007